Category: A Professor’s Thoughts…

Let the travels begin!! Are you all ready??

DAY 1

Olá!! That’s Portuguese for Hi! Alright, Alright, Alright!! I’m back ya’ll did you miss me! So before hit the continent we had an extended layover in Lisbon, Portugal and let’s just say wow!!! Now I have visited quite a few European cities but this one definitely stands out even with the short visit! As the capital city it provides a nice balance of old and new, filled with endless charm. It offers everything from delicious food, yummy coffee, stunning architecture and rich history. So let’s jump in it…

Now I love a good background story/lesson about the places I visit and this one was no exception! Lisbon in particular features beautiful buildings, especially churches and cathedrals:

 Now the above church holds a great deal of history. At one time the largest church in Lisbon and considered a national monument has gone through tremendous stress and destruction. It would be damaged by two earthquakes one in 1531 and the worst of the two in 1755, which almost completely demolished it! While rebuilding began quickly it was not complete until 1807. It also served as a site for many Portuguese royal weddings and executions.

Also, in the 16th century, a group of Black men known as the Black Free Brotherhood would gather here and fellowship, this is essentially the center of the Black religious brotherhood in Lisbon. Not surprisingly this is information that was once hidden from view, however, the church has a deep connection to the city’s African population.

So unfortunate yet not surprising, how people forget to acknowledge the presence of Black folks and that many were actually free men who integrated into society, held jobs, and were respected by many. If you travel to the Cais do Sodré neighborhood you can find a tangible record of enslaved and free Black people who were doctors, shipbuilders, journalists, salesmen, and so much more! While many were stolen from their homeland of Africa, it is not as though they were empty vessels. Their skills, talents, and knowledge are ingrained within the history.

Just a last photo moment to sink in…for many of our enslaved ancestors a staircase like this was the beginning of a new place that they had no idea would change the trajectory of the world. An arrival like no other…

This will become even more clear in Senegal and Ghana…

Now the Lisbon Cathedral (pictured above) also provides a deep history as it is the most important cathedral in Lisbon and is also where the Bishop of Lisbon is housed.

Let’s just say religion and Catholicism are pretty major here!!

Here are a few more city sights:

A couple more history facts:

• I would realize that while most folks are very familiar with U.S. slavery, much of what we have seen, read, and maybe even endured has deep roots specifically in Portuguese enslaved culture. I never can get over what happened to so many of my ancestors, as a matter of fact I will never forget!!
• One of the oldest neighborhoods in the city of Lisbon is Alfama, and it was founded by the Moors. This would be a place that would introduce Africa’s history, roots, and connections with so many people.
• Port of Lisbon/City Center: The third largest port in Portugal that opens onto the Atlantic Ocean with unique positioning to other parts of Europe and North Africa. As the center of slavery for Portugal, Lisbon was a bustling space for trading goods and bodies. Beginning in 1444, the Atlantic slave trade would see Portuguese traders in large numbers bringing some of the first enslaved people.

• In 1526, Portuguese mariners would bring the first load of African slaves to Brazil and the Americas. This enslavement and forced conversion ultimately expanded into Africa as well (we all know about colonization). Most folks do not realize the substantial role of the Portuguese, sometimes outdoing the French, Dutch, and British.
• And to make things more problematic enslaved folks would be baptized before they were shipped connecting back to the justification of enslavement was less cruel due to the incorporation of Christianity.
• While Portugal definitely played a major role in the slave trade, its beginnings would be due to religion. The majority of folks in Portugal in the early 1400s and even today practiced Catholicism, and if you did not partake, you would be put in bondage. Many of us know that religion was used to justify slavery, but how about it being used against you.
• There is a very complex relationship between the Moors and Portugal whether it was regarding trade ties or the Portuguese Christians were forcing the Islamic Moors to convert. Many of the Moors that would come to Portugal suffered the consequences of being enslaved and forced to convert. And in some cases, enslaved folks (in this case Slavic slaves) received better treatment! (see above fact)
• Fun Fact: Lisbon is the largest producer of cork (that’s why they drink so much wine) 🙂
• The Portuguese Flag: On the flag, if you zoom in there are five blue shields that represent the five wounds of Christ, seven castles in red and green outlined in yellow that represent the 7 villages that were conquered by the King…the green portion of the flag was added to distinguish the flag from the old royal standard which was a solid red background

For all my fashionistas:

Now I will say it is a walkable city but you just have to keep in mind the cobblestones and the MANY MANY MANY hills. At some points we would take a lift/elevator just to shave off 10 mins from walking up a hill. If one thing is for certain, your calves will be on point!! In many ways, the city reminded me of San Francisco, the narrow streets and trolley/train cars:

Now you cannot go anywhere and not try the food…What is Portugal known for? In general it’s seafood, which is music to my ears!! I was in second heaven!! One thing in particular that is a favorite is bacalhau or salted cod. There is no shortage of this staple at all!! Other Portuguese staples include:

• Pasteis de Bacalhau: cod fritters
• Polvo à Lagareiro: octopus with olive oil and potatoes
• Bifana: a traditional Portuguese sandwich that comprises a bread roll filled with marinated pork cutlets
• For dessert, the famous pastéis de nata these delectable little custard cakes are sure to give you the right amount of sweetness! Originally sold by a monastery with a recipe that has never been shared. To this day, only a few people know it and those that do must sign a non-disclosure agreement.

In addition to the above I would be able to try a popular dish that reminded me of a seafood stew and few other foods to make your mouth water, these dishes came from Restaurante A Gina:

It was also pretty cool to see ALDI and Lidl in Lisbon as well, as these are definitely popular in the US, especially in Richmond where I am based. To be honest, they are even more fancy than ours and spread out throughout the city. According to one of our local drivers they are pretty much the main go-to grocery stores outside of the markets!!

So my closing thoughts for Portugal, I would love to come back and truly explore Lisboa and the country as a whole. From the brief time we were here, I can see why this place has become a safe expat haven for U.S. citizens. There is so much history, food, and wine 🙂 that I need to dive into!! Just wait for me, I’ll be back!! Until next time Até logo  (see you later!)

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DAY 2

Now while this is Day 2, it is officially the first day in the homeland! Considering the long flights and layover, and the busy city tour our first day in Senegal is a day of rest and relaxation.

Here are a few highlights:

I will say Senegal is already starting off on a good note, so it can only get better!!

It’s so good to be home!!

Stay tuned and I will see you soon! ~Dr. G