Day: July 5, 2024

So I know it’s a little later than normal, but yesterday was quite a heavy day as we ventured across the waters to Gorée Island, which is an island off the coast of Senegal opposite of Dakar the capital city. A little background about Gorée Island:

• Gorée was a central trading post especially for slavery as it would be the largest slave trading center on the African coast
• Gorée was the name given by the French colonials which means dignity
• Wolof is the primary language spoken on the island
• The Gorée Island was designated a historic site in 1944, with safeguarding measures following in 1951, and then inscribed as a national heritage site protected by UNESCO in 1978
• The first inhabitants came to the island in 1500 which were the Portuguese then the Dutch, and lastly France
• The first Black man in the French Parliament was born on the island
• Once the slave trade stopped on the island colonization would end as well

Now I knew going in that it would be a lot to take in so I prepared myself ahead of time, but even with preparation you still can never be fully prepared. To walk in the space, breathe in the air, literally go out of the “Door of No Return” I got chills up my spine, its a feeling you do not forget. As I was typing this up I had to pause several times because I got angry over and over, but I pushed through!!

Once again we had an OUTSTANDING guide, Mr. Diallo, throughout the island. In many ways he reminded me of a guide when I went to Robben Island in South African. His honesty and candor really made the experience complete. Trust me it is not an easy task, I almost wonder what this experience means for him, especially when the group of people are primarily African Americans. This is not just another excursion for us it is an opportunity to in many ways course-correct and carry forth the memories and voices of those who did make it past the raging waters. I get real sensitive about this because many want to minimize the stories and treatment, act as if the torture did not exist, or tell me it’s over now you are free you should be happy…however this is far from the case (but that’s another lesson for another day).

Continuing forward, I appreciate the time and work that guides like Mr. Diallo take to tell these stories, because trust me they are not easy hear. And one thing that he would say that stuck with me for the entire trip was when he made the statement “apologize but never forget.” He would actually say this on more than one occasion (four times to be exact). So I am going to be frank here for a second, while I acknowledge the apologies that have come from various individuals, that is simply not enough. It is what you do after the apology that really is the true work and testament. Apologies can be dished out like pouring a glass of water, what are you going to do after that because an apology holds no weight if just left to fall to the ground. While I know everyone does want to travel to the continent (particularly African Americans), it is still necessary to be informed so that no one else can tell you our history and story.

Before going through the door of no return, you enter what is called the House of Slaves (La Maison des Esclaves), now get this on the top level the European traders would stay on the top level drinking and dining with each other, many times without their wives. As they would often be found raping many of the African women. Let’s keep in mind, that these activities also took place throughout the island, BUT in this particular space, it is even more disturbing.

In this same building (that held at times 150 enslaved Africans) below you would find rooms with barely any light or window space made of stone that housed the enslaved Africans before they boarded them on the ships like cargo. In the rooms, they were fed so that they could be at least 60kg, if they did not make weight they were fed until they did. Now it’s not like these were hotel rooms with plush beds and a bathroom, no ma’am no sir…an open area that had a metal gate door. Some of the rooms which measured at 2.6 meters x 2.6 meters crammed as many as 30-40 children or 15-20 adults. I cannot even begin to imagine what that would do to one’s psyche. AND WHY?? How is that humane?But then again when you do not see anything wrong or you think Africans are less than….welp…Let me tell you, I’m claustrophobic and I know it would have been a wrap for me!!

Here’s the part of the narrative that took me even longer to process…Let me drop a number 6 MILLION…by 1848 that is how many had died and never returned to their homes in which they were taken…So MANY  painful memories of the Atlantic slave trade are housed in this place, and while many people live and work on this island today it is still considered a major remnant of the slave trade.

Just taking it all in… Mercy Mercy Me

Even amid the enslavement horrors, there are glimmers of hope and success that can be found on the island. On a lighter note, I would learn of this particular boarding school Mariama Ba School of Excellence (pictured below) on the island which is one of the most prestigious schools in Senegal and dedicated to the education of young girls. The school was founded on the idea of ​​Colette Hubert Senghor, the wife of Léopold Sedhar Senghor – the first Senegalese President following independence – who had been educated at the Legion of Honour boarding school in France. As a public boarding school it welcomes 250 young girls from 6th grade to 12th grade. Of that 35 girls are selected and brought to universities in the U.S., Canada, and Europe with a 100% success rate. A school exclusively dedicated to girls, the aim is to train “the country’s elite.” To learn more about the school see here!

Now hearing about this school warmed my heart and was a much needed pick me up!

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On a side note, before I close out, let me tell these ladies who are selling their goods on the island take hustling to a whole new level! I have never been so overwhelmed and filled with anxiety, we barely could get through the tour with them right on our heels. And while I respect the hustle a part of me wanted to not be treated as a tourist and enjoy what the island had to offer…a rich history and many stories to tell.

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With that said…Interestingly enough, despite the pain and trauma Gorée Island also serves as a place of respite and inspiration for many. For some, particularly us on this trip, the island is now a pilgrimage destination for the African diaspora, a bridge between the West and Africa, a space for exchange and dialogue between cultures, and a place for reconciliation and forgiveness. I will be honest I am personally still working on that last part.

Now while this day was filled with a lot of heavy emotions, I can say that in the end I truly hope that I am making my ancestors proud and staying dedicated to making sure their stories are not silenced. And if there is one thing I want folks to take away from this is that regardless of the torture, pain, and inhumane treatment, their voices will never be lost. The Atlantic Ocean carries the spirits and they refuse to be dismissed. And as long as there is breath in my body, conviction in my soul, and a desire to teach my ancestors and their journey will ALWAYS be a part of the global narrative.

Alright, good people! Until the next time, I will see you soon!! ~Dr. G