It’s amazing how you can live in one place, go to another, and it feels like a mirror image…with just more people. In comparison to Beijing, Shanghai is definitely much more metropolitan. I was glad to see both places, because both offer something very unique and different.
Endless stores and shopping
This part of town (Nanjing Road) literally reminds me of a playful New York Times Square!! #Shanghai#DrGsChinaTakeover
#AMAZING…. Got to check off a major item on my bucket list…One of the wonders of the #NewSevenWondersOfTheWorld!!
Walking and climbing the Great Wall of China!! Once used as a form of protection from other countries trying to invade, it spans 13,170 miles (21,196 kilometers), and is the longest man-made structure in history.
Let me tell you this, it is not for the faint of heart!!
You gotta pace yourself and take your time…’Cause on this day it was 100 degrees!!
5.12 miles later…I am so thankful and blessed to have experienced this wonder of the world!!
I DID IT!! Still can’t believe it!!
Later that day… Another site that I remember watching on the news as a young child and seeing it on National Geographic…Tiananmen Square!! Tiananmen is a city square in the center of the city! It has great cultural significance as it was the site of several important events in Chinese history.
For someone like me, who is not from China, this site is best known for the 1989 protests and massacre that ended with a military crackdown due to international media coverage, along with the internet and global connectivity.
As a highly trafficked place, the square contains the Monument to the People’s Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, the National Museum of China, and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong. It spans 765 x 282 meters (215,730 m2 or 53.31 acres).
Alright good folks….I made it to Beijing and in one piece! Talk about a long travel day, and how about we pretty much lost a day lol….Left on Wednesday night and arrived in Friday morning.
Now before we arrived in Beijing we had a brief layover in Seoul, Korea. Now while we didn’t have enough time to venture into the city we did get a chance to try some good food and snacks. So to tickle my fancy, I tried the fish cakes and crab and fish cake, and then a few sweet treats…definitely quite tasty if I say so myself!
Just enough to tide me over before the second leg of the trip. Oh and let me also say, the airport in Seoul was definitely on my list of cleanest airports…major Kudos! In addition, with regards to airlines, I would definitely fly on Korean Air again! Comfy seats, delicious meal, nice film and television selection, and good service!
So that wrapped up my layover and next stop…Beijing! Let me just start out by saying, I’m not really sure of my expectations, but let’s just say I’m not disappointed so far…
Upon our arrival, our host guides picked us up and gave us a mini lesson while en route to our hotel. So of course we know the 2008 Summer Olympics took place in Beijing (will share pics of Beijing Olympic Park in later posts), it is also the capital city of China, and has over 22 million residents. As one of the world’s most populous cities it is truly a global city and one of the world’s leading centers of culture, politics, business, technology, and tourism. In just the few hours that I have been here, you can clearly see it is a bustling city.
Where I’m staying for this trip is on a strip known as “Wangfujing Pedestrian Street,” it gets this name because the majority of the area is made for walking. Pretty much you can walk around the area get your shopping done and fill your stomach. Within this main area you can find a Nike, Apple, and Fila store, plus a Zara and a Starbucks. And for my luxury brand fans, you got Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, and Hermes all in close proximity of each other. But that’s not it, there is also a pretty good size mall, “Beijing APM” that has 6 levels of more shopping, food (exotic foods included), and entertainment. While this area is very much commercialized, this is not a new concept. Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty there has always been commercial activities in the area.
This trip so far has been about trying new experiences, so to cap off the night, I decided to try out this hot pot spot for a late night dinner. Just in case you may not have heard of the hot pot (also known as steamboat) dish, it is a dish of soup/stock that is kept simmering while adding an assortment of meats/seafood, vegetables, noodles, and soy-based foods. Think of it like the precursor to the Instant Pot.
Quite tasty if I say so myself!
I think that just about wraps up for the day! Stay tuned for the next day’s events…the Great Wall of China and the Forbidden City!
As you know, I like to chronicle my travel journeys, and this trip is no different! Each year, I like to take at least one international trip, and this year I am headed off to Asia! I’m definitely very excited about this trip, as I’ve never been before, and I’m looking forward to soaking in some knowledge and having some fun too!
My My My!! What can I say! This trip has been one for the books!! As I have said many times before, I am truly thankful and blessed that I have been able to venture into another beautiful country in Africa. Senegal you made me feel at home! Nothing like discovering what the world has to offer! Senegal has just added to the wonders of amazement that I have when it comes to traveling. I have become even more informed by the history, the culture, and the people.
In deep conversation with a fellow traveler
In many ways, it was a full circle moment coming to Senegal as I remember in my MA program in Africana Studies at Georgia State University, my Proseminar professor Dr. Dunham introduced us to such greats as Cheikh Anta Diop and Léopold Sédar Senghor and then I got a chance to walk where they walked. With each African country that I visit it is as though I’m adding another piece to the puzzle. Just making one visit would dispel so many myths. Cause let me tell you, while there is a gradual rise in Black/African Americans coming to the continent, trust other folks (especially Europeans) are coming in droves. So why can’t we enjoy the splendors of the continent?! Now I do not have an exact answer as to why so many come, but part of me feels like it is to fulfill some illusion of who Africans are in society.
Senegal offers another African perspective that I feel gets overshadowed by more popular and modern countries like Ghana, Nigeria, Egypt, and South African, but there is plenty to showcase…Everything from:
The significance of the Baobab tree
To the importance of Goree Island
To growing communities like Akon City
The animal reserves and the need for preservation
How the Senegalese navigate traffic (lol)
The fact that if there is money to be made it does not matter how late in the night it could, folks will put in the work
That yummy Senegalese coffee and Bissap juice
I even got to practice my French!!
And the food, LORD HAVE MERCY…Having fresh seafood, fruits and veggies on a daily and bread that doesn’t make you feel heavy…It make sense why their skin is flawless and they barely look their age.
While yes there is a deep-seated history rooted in slavery, we still manage to come out on top! We do not have rest in the trauma and tragedy, there is light and it is shining bright!
I also appreciate how many of the locals, guides, and friends are not only welcoming but in some cases protective. It was as if I had never met a stranger. This first week has been such an inspiring time and I know our time in Ghana will just continue to build on that foundation. Even now just being able to reflect on my thoughts with the birds chirping in the background and a nice cool breeze, I’m definitely in my happy place with my people!
Confirming Moment: While taking in the day at a game reserve about 40 mins outside of Gambia, I got a chance to talk with an ornithologist and share my love for travel, especially within Africa. During our conversation, he asked me what I did and what brought me here. To which I replied I am a university professor and I love coming home. He then answered, “yes you are African…and your willingness, love, and excitement to visit proves just that without question.” Another definining moment to add to the bank! I needed to hear that when I did!!
Halfway through the first part of the journey!!
Week 1 is done and my cup runneth over! Thank you, Senegal my mind, body, and spirit are full.
The next post you see will be the second half of my #WestAfricanJourneyTravels in Ghana!! As always I look forward to sharing with you!
This was a much-needed day to rest and recoup, considering what we experienced the previous day. My mind, body, and spirit needed to recalibrate and not have to worry about anything for that day! For this day I took time to laugh with friends, sleep a few hours, hang out poolside at the resort, and contemplate the journey so far.
I will say this again, I am truly grateful and blessed to be able to have this opportunity to travel. Sometimes just escaping to somewhere far away is good for the soul.
Not too much to share for today, but as you can see below it was a good day!!
Dr. G on a rest day enjoying a “Bob Marley”
Just a few days left in Senegal!! See you all soon!! ~Dr. G
So I know it’s a little later than normal, but yesterday was quite a heavy day as we ventured across the waters to Gorée Island, which is an island off the coast of Senegal opposite of Dakar the capital city. A little background about Gorée Island:
Gorée was a central trading post especially for slavery as it would be the largest slave trading center on the African coast
Gorée was the name given by the French colonials which means dignity
Wolof is the primary language spoken on the island
The Gorée Island was designated a historic site in 1944, with safeguarding measures following in 1951, and then inscribed as a national heritage site protected by UNESCO in 1978
The first inhabitants came to the island in 1500 which were the Portuguese then the Dutch, and lastly France
The first Black man in the French Parliament was born on the island
Once the slave trade stopped on the island colonization would end as well
Now I knew going in that it would be a lot to take in so I prepared myself ahead of time, but even with preparation you still can never be fully prepared. To walk in the space, breathe in the air, literally go out of the “Door of No Return” I got chills up my spine, its a feeling you do not forget. As I was typing this up I had to pause several times because I got angry over and over, but I pushed through!!
Dr. G traveling on a barge boat to Gorée Island
Once again we had an OUTSTANDING guide, Mr. Diallo, throughout the island. In many ways he reminded me of a guide when I went to Robben Island in South African. His honesty and candor really made the experience complete. Trust me it is not an easy task, I almost wonder what this experience means for him, especially when the group of people are primarily African Americans. This is not just another excursion for us it is an opportunity to in many ways course-correct and carry forth the memories and voices of those who did make it past the raging waters. I get real sensitive about this because many want to minimize the stories and treatment, act as if the torture did not exist, or tell me it’s over now you are free you should be happy…however this is far from the case (but that’s another lesson for another day).
Our guide on Goree Island, Mr. Diallo providing a great deal of knowledge
Continuing forward, I appreciate the time and work that guides like Mr. Diallo take to tell these stories, because trust me they are not easy hear. And one thing that he would say that stuck with me for the entire trip was when he made the statement “apologize but never forget.” He would actually say this on more than one occasion (four times to be exact). So I am going to be frank here for a second, while I acknowledge the apologies that have come from various individuals, that is simply not enough. It is what you do after the apology that really is the true work and testament. Apologies can be dished out like pouring a glass of water, what are you going to do after that because an apology holds no weight if just left to fall to the ground. While I know everyone does want to travel to the continent (particularly African Americans), it is still necessary to be informed so that no one else can tell you our history and story.
Before going through the door of no return, you enter what is called the House of Slaves (La Maison des Esclaves), now get this on the top level the European traders would stay on the top level drinking and dining with each other, many times without their wives. As they would often be found raping many of the African women. Let’s keep in mind, that these activities also took place throughout the island, BUT in this particular space, it is even more disturbing.
House of Slaves (La Maison des Esclaves)
In this same building (that held at times 150 enslaved Africans) below you would find rooms with barely any light or window space made of stone that housed the enslaved Africans before they boarded them on the ships like cargo. In the rooms, they were fed so that they could be at least 60kg, if they did not make weight they were fed until they did. Now it’s not like these were hotel rooms with plush beds and a bathroom, no ma’am no sir…an open area that had a metal gate door. Some of the rooms which measured at 2.6 meters x 2.6 meters crammed as many as 30-40 children or 15-20 adults. I cannot even begin to imagine what that would do to one’s psyche. AND WHY?? How is that humane?But then again when you do not see anything wrong or you think Africans are less than….welp…Let me tell you, I’m claustrophobic and I know it would have been a wrap for me!!
Here’s the part of the narrative that took me even longer to process…Let me drop a number 6 MILLION…by 1848 that is how many had died and never returned to their homes in which they were taken…So MANY painful memories of the Atlantic slave trade are housed in this place, and while many people live and work on this island today it is still considered a major remnant of the slave trade.
Looking out the Door of No Return
Just taking it all in… Mercy Mercy Me
Door of No Return…Looking out to the ocean…
Even amid the enslavement horrors, there are glimmers of hope and success that can be found on the island. On a lighter note, I would learn of this particular boarding school Mariama Ba School of Excellence (pictured below) on the island which is one of the most prestigious schools in Senegal and dedicated to the education of young girls. The school was founded on the idea of Colette Hubert Senghor, the wife of Léopold Sedhar Senghor – the first Senegalese President following independence – who had been educated at the Legion of Honour boarding school in France. As a public boarding school it welcomes 250 young girls from 6th grade to 12th grade. Of that 35 girls are selected and brought to universities in the U.S., Canada, and Europe with a 100% success rate. A school exclusively dedicated to girls, the aim is to train “the country’s elite.” To learn more about the school see here!
Now hearing about this school warmed my heart and was a much needed pick me up!
On a side note, before I close out, let me tell these ladies who are selling their goods on the island take hustling to a whole new level! I have never been so overwhelmed and filled with anxiety, we barely could get through the tour with them right on our heels. And while I respect the hustle a part of me wanted to not be treated as a tourist and enjoy what the island had to offer…a rich history and many stories to tell.
With that said…Interestingly enough, despite the pain and trauma Gorée Island also serves as a place of respite and inspiration for many. For some, particularly us on this trip, the island is now a pilgrimage destination for the African diaspora, a bridge between the West and Africa, a space for exchange and dialogue between cultures, and a place for reconciliation and forgiveness. I will be honest I am personally still working on that last part.
Dr. G standing outside of the door of no return and looking to where my ancestors were once forced out to foreign lands (Gorée Island-Senegal)
Now while this day was filled with a lot of heavy emotions, I can say that in the end I truly hope that I am making my ancestors proud and staying dedicated to making sure their stories are not silenced. And if there is one thing I want folks to take away from this is that regardless of the torture, pain, and inhumane treatment, their voices will never be lost. The Atlantic Ocean carries the spirits and they refuse to be dismissed. And as long as there is breath in my body, conviction in my soul, and a desire to teach my ancestors and their journey will ALWAYS be a part of the global narrative.
Alright, good people! Until the next time, I will see you soon!! ~Dr. G
So on today’s agenda, we did an excursion trip to the Bandia Reserve (which is Senegal’s first private animal reserve) for a safari trip. And let me first start out by saying I really appreciate all of the different types of safari’s that I have done because each one provides a new experience. Oftentimes when one does a safari you are in the natural environment of the animals (basically their turf), so they are nearly as accessible. This is partly because it is survival of the fittest. This one in particular provided a chance to see many of the animals up-close and personal.
Our reserve guide Malat was definitely on point!! He had all the facts down to a tee!! And he even had a few tricks on how to find where the animals were throughout the reserve. I noticed throughout the drive he would always look at the ground. Come to find out instead of using a walkie-talkie or cell phone, he went old school and tracked them by their footprints.
Dr. G with our Reserve Guide Malat
Now here is what you’ve been waiting on for this post…A few of the animals, we got to see we either had a chance to have a heart to heart or a very close encounter, check it below:
Now these rhinoceros are what I like to think of as gentle giants until you mess with their food. For the most part, they mind their business, however, we would witness one literally scare off some antelope during its feeding time. The one monkey next to him somehow managed to stick around probably because he was less of a threat with its food.
Feeding time for the rhino
Let me tell you these monkeys have NO FEAR and will snatch your food in a heartbeat!! One snatched a slice of pizza and another a sugar sweetener packet!
Dr. G having a brief conversation with one of the monkeys on the reserve.
Now who all remembers Zazu from The Lion King? Well, we got to see him and let’s just say the movie did a great interpretation!
“Zazu” also known as a Red-billed Hornbill
We also got to see zebra, various antelope, crocodiles, ostrich, impalas, warthogs, and giraffes, and more…
In addition to the animals, I would learn a great deal about the Baobab tree. Let me just say…WOW… these trees are some resilient forces of nature!! They are considered a central symbol of Senegal and some of them can hold as much as 10,000 liters of water during the rainy season. These fascinating creatures of nature can live up to 1500-2000 years old. Their roots are very shallow and even when they split or somehow break, they still manage to grow even if it is sideways.
The above tree is a significant one as there have been over 600+ griots buried within this tree. Now you are probably asking what do you mean buried? It’s an extraordinary feeling to know that you are amongst a collective of storytellers who played a role in preserving the culture. Griots played a significant role in oral history making sure the stories are passed down through generations. They served as a vessel of resistance for those who were against certain religions and cultural traditions, and a way to push back against French colonization. If there was a problem in the community, the griots would facilitate some type of resolution and restore order. As a repository of knowledge it was only right that they would be buried inside a baobab [also known as the tree of life], that their history would live on just like the baobab tree.
The literal lived realities and collective journeys of ancestors can be found here. And you will see me repeat this alot, it is essential that all voices are heard, acknowledged, and recognized, especially those of the African diaspora. Far too long land and culture is stolen or erased. Thus, stories tied to the land become important. Our guide Malat would share with us that if a griot was buried under ground, there would be no rain. Sharing that in the 1960s, soon after Senegalese independence, the government imposed egalitarianism, this resulted in banning spiritual practices of burial, which forced Serer people to bury the griots underground. It is said that in the same year there was a drought. While I do not have complete/exact information on this, one can find a history of droughts causing major famines in the region throughout the 1960s.
Dr. G paying respects to the ancestors who have transitioned back to the roots.
Now you know I gotta drop some interesting facts for you:
While the official language of Senegal is French (due to French colonization) the most widely spoken language is Wolof. [All those years of French in K-12 and college paid off some :-)]
There are only 3 white rhinoceros in the entire country of Senegal and two of them (male and female) are housed in the Bandia Reserve (see above).
The Baobab tree not only can live practically numerous lifetimes, but also as sources of food, water, and health remedies. The roots and the fruits are edible, the leaves can be eaten as a relish, cooked in a sauce, dried and powdered, and can even be good for women and their lady parts.
The Bandia Reserve was established in 1987 and was 400 ha (hectares) [equivalent to 989 acres] and now it has grown to 3500 ha [approximately 8,649 acres]
Riding on some of the roads, I felt like I was back in Georgia looking at all the red clay dirt (see some of the above pics)…and once again it made sense why white colonizers took Africans to familiar environmental/ecological settings…While enslaved folks did not realize that was what was happening the traders definitely did!!
As the excursion came to a close there were a few things that I did find very interesting…
No one really uses GPS it’s as if everyone just knows where to go and how to get there
No stoplights, stop signs, or street signs…As a visual learner and driver, I could probably manage to a degree once I learn the places, but the initial learning would be the tricky part. Talk about Jesus take the wheel! Can you imagine just pulling out onto the road, merging in however you can fit in? I would be a nervous wreck, but I guess if I were living there I would probably become a very aggressive driver.
There is a certain level of kindness that I saw in some of the people we encountered on today, just very chill , relax, and calm. Much like in Tanzania, the people here in Senegal embody a “Hakuna Matata” spirit.
This trip so far has further confirmed that I need to invest in some property abroad, quick and fast!! And what better place than in Africa!
As I close out for the day just wanted to share this joyful moment when some of the folks on the trip got a chance to purchase these AMAZING looking mangoes. And you would not believe the price… depending on the weight one could purchase 3 mangoes for what would be the equivalent of $1.60. Let’s just we would not even come close to getting that in the U.S. Gotta love supporting the local vendors. And don’t worry, I will check in with them and let you know how they taste.
Local street vendor selling mangoes
Oh and speaking of money here is some of the currency that you would find in Senegal:
Just a little bit of the West African CFA franc ($1.00 is equal to roughly 610 CFAs)
While the value may not be the same as the American dollar, the aesthetic (particularly African currency) is so much more appealing!!
Day 4’s post is going to be a heavy one, as we will be traveling to Goree Island which from the 15th to the 19th century was the largest slave-trading center on the African coast. It’s going to be a day that I will definitely have to further process and it will probably stick with me throughout the trip. But like Maya Angelou once said, “And Still I Rise!”